Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Day 2

it is rare to awake before the sun when one is on "holiday" but awake they did. rummaging through backpacks and shuffling through the dark and narrow aisle way was made easier by the light of a headlamp or a cell phone. The Guide looked on as the cell phone of Miss Prim and The Jewel emitted a bright stream of white light while headlamps pierced the darkness with a strong white beam. He wondered, "will the cell phone become the next best backpacker gadget- phone, camera, flashlight, gps, translator, and who knows what else?" He shook his head as he made his way around the sleepy hikers. Outside in the cool wet air he looked up at the Dome du Miage and entertained a curious thought, "will the cell phone become 'a guide' thus ending the centuries long tradition of alpine mountain guiding?"

Together The 9 sat down at the wooden tables. today will be first of many breakfasts of bread, jam, coffee and tea. breakfast is its own cultural phenomenon, a small glimpse into the differences of our way of life, not to mention our preferences. to some, this spread of homemade jams bursting of flavors from local berries and fruits, personifies the way of life in the alps, The Guide says, "it is like eating the grass, mountains and wind all at once. it isn't just to taste the fruits, you are tasting and smelling everything, the jam is just a way of being here in this moment, in this place."

this sentiment does not satiate the grumbling stomachs of Mr. Man or The Jewel. in coming days their stomachs won't be the only part of them grumbling at breakfast.

with the rising sun The 9 looked on as The Guide spread out the map. He pointed to their current location and expertly identified the route for the day, in both French and English, "vous voyez? you see?" and heads nodded in assent. with that, The 9 set off.

to a village for a bit of a break. it was market day so the town was bubbling with activity. Miss Prim, Mr. Man, and The Jewel happily explored the church and main street, marveling at the flowers, fresh foods, and overall beauty of this mountain village. Miss Prim especially enjoyed speaking to the local vendors, she would ask about the produce, their growing techniques, the effects of the climate and weather patterns, recipes, and seek their recommendations. The Missing Husband never quite understood all this chatter- peruse and purchase was his shopping motto- conversation just gets in the way.



Le Chamois had struck out ahead and arrived earlier than the rest giving her plenty of time to explore and grab an espresso. she was walking with purpose through the main street when the others greeted her with a happy "bonjour!" a look of confusion crossed her face as she cocked her head to one side, paused, and then replied, "oh i have had such a lovely espresso! but i suppose you won't have time for one though, i imagine we are just passing thru."

Together The 9 walked down the main street, and then along a small stream that led them out of the village. in a group it is important to stay relatively close together, especially the first few days as you are getting to know the terrain and The Guide is getting to know you. it does not mean everyone must walk all together, rather it means the group is within sight of each other. in this way, it allows individuals time to chat or to walk on their own. As it turns out, this understanding was not shared by each of the individuals in the group.

Le Chamois is used to leading, in all facets of her life she is most comfortable when there is a detailed plan and she is in a position of leadership.  this is not to say she will not follow orders or defer to authority, she absolutely has and will- she and her troops survived in the middle east because of brilliant directives, she climbed Mount Everest under the watchful eye of an experienced climber. As a member of the military this is core to her training and ultimately, to her survival.

Arriving at Notre Dame du la Gorge, an 8th century church, the group shook off their backpacks for a short break to explore and enjoy the warmth of the sun. The Guide took this opportunity to talk with Le Chamois, specifically to share his concern that she walked further ahead and thus out of sight. She laughed at his concern stating, "i know the route, you showed us on the map, i will stop at each of the designated spots."


"it is not only about stopping, it is also my responsibility to be sure you are safe, that everyone is safe," said The Guide in a slightly perturbed tone. They stood looking at each other. Was it only a difference of understanding of a group led trek? or was it more? were there personal or cultural expectations? was this a result of miscommunication? or was it about power and authority? was it a male-female thing?

"fine," stated Le Chamois with pursed lips and furrowed brow.

The Guide watched as she turned to walk away, a faint smile (or was it a smirk?) appeared and just as quickly was gone. He turned as well and joined Oscar for a moment of solitude.

The 9 continued through the valley before heading up...and up...and up. After passing through snowfields and rocky terrain they stopped for a long lunch and rest.


They laid in the grass listening to cow bells, enjoying the long view from whence they came, and soaking in the Alpine sunshine.


The final ascent was long and slightly arduous. The chatter of the group members subsided as they focused on the narrow trail and loose rocks. Le Chamois led again but this time within sight of the others. Miss Prim, The Lady and The Gentleman walked together at times, sharing a joke or pointing at a flower in French. Mr. Man held a steady pace on his own while The Jewel and Oscar shared the path. They regrouped at what many hoped was "the top" but turned out to be a precursor to a winding path leading up to the hut of Bonhomme.

As they climbed the terrain changed again and they found sheets of glimmering rock which necessitated sunglasses when the sun shone just so. it was warm and the sun was strong, whereas a few minutes before they were wearing multiple layers, now they stripped down to the minimum. At some point Le Chamois disappeared from sight. The Jewel and Miss Prim were the first to notice. Then Mr. Man made a comment. Had Le Chamois kept her earlier conversation with The Guide to herself, they wouldn't have thought much about her whereabouts. When they arrived at the hut they expected her to be there waiting, but she was no where to be seen. 


"It is a bit odd isn't it?" said Mr.Man to The Jewel and Miss Prim who nodded as they scanned the immense alpine landscape.



Saturday, September 21, 2013

Day 1

the route...sort of

I spend a lot of time being curious and confounded by the world and the people in it. if i am not careful, i can get lost in pondering human behavior and all the influences and precursors to such behavior(s). so i knew joining a group of international hikers for a trek entitled "Mont Blanc Encompassed" would be...an indulgence of the mind, as well as the body.

The meeting point in Les Houches
9 personalities were before me in Les Houches; hints of personalities really, for how much does anyone know of anyone at "hello"? I was to learn more as hours and days went by, and i was to find the path (TMB) had its own complex personality. Of course we didn't exist in a bubble, but rather shared the TMB with many others, so it was a daily intermixing and mingling of attitudes, opinions, experiences, cultures, languages, expectations, emotions, ideas, needs, and histories.

How does it happen that 9 beings from 4-ish countries come together for 10 days of their lives?

The Jewel doesn't believe in coincidences, she did not see any aspect of this trek as a random happenstance. Miss Prim did not wait for the first day to find out about her trekking partners, she wrote to the company to find out who was coming and where they were from. From that information, Miss Prim formulated a hypothesis as to the make up of the group- "they must all be responsible working adults who have time and funds for a long holiday in August, and as they are joining a trek in France they must all be well traveled and speak multiple languages." The Chamois expected the others would be athletes particularly fond of mountaineering and intense physical pursuits, "why else would anyone do this trek?" she wondered. The Chamois does not believe in coincidence either, but she doesn't look for meaning in things. she would say, "life is what you make of it...and even then it can be awfully disappointing."

For whatever reason The 9 came together. While they weren't always physically sharing the same space, they were connected and certainly affecting each others space and experience in the world. so allow me to make formal introductions...

The Jewel- from Australia, she is a mother who is now out on her own exploring the world.
Miss Prim- from Denmark, she is a mother and grandmother, a former teacher and lover of languages.
The Missing Husband- from Denmark, he is married to Miss Prim. He is a father and grandfather, a former teacher and an injured athlete.
Oscar- from France, he is young but strong and stubborn and sweet.
The Guide- from France, he is a man of the Alps and a proud son of France.
Le Chamois- from Australia, she is a high level military official, and more mother to her siblings than sister.
The Lady- from France, she is a cancer survivor, a mother, and wife to The Gentleman.
The Gentleman- from France, he is retired from the fashion world and enjoying life with his wife.
Mr. Man- from Australia (and New Zealand), he is a father who has retired early to travel and settle in to his new home in the country.

view of Dome du Miage
Day 1- Les Houches to Refuge de Miage (at about 5000ft elevation).

the end of day 1

Monday, September 16, 2013

back in the country for 3 weeks and still my photos are in disarray. granted there are significantly less of them; i can no longer quantify the number as "obscene" rather it probably now qualifies as "an overabundance of photos." so without further explanation here are some from the first few days.
view from a window overlooking Lyon.

view from a train- on my way to Chamonix.
walking through Chamonix

Chamonix, Mont Blanc is off to the left.

Guides are held in high esteem in the Alps.
a break along the rushing mountain waters.

another view of the water, the town and the snow.

Saturday, August 31, 2013

North Face Ultra Mint Blanc

http://www.ultratrailmb.com/page/20/UTMB%C2%AE.html

Check out this site to read about this amazing race that covers most of what I did...but in significantly less time. Athletes from all over the world compete, pics to come.

Belleville, Paris

Travel day- Annecy to Paris on the TGV...arrived starving and ill prepared for Paris; from quiet and organized alpine villages to a cacophony of sounds, sights and masses of people. Paris and New York always assault my senses and send me reeling, and yet I thoroughly enjoy them both.

A tiny hole in the wall Pho place caught my eye and after checking in at my 5th or 6th hostel in Paris, I headed directly to 1 of the vacant seats for hot, steaming Pho. Somehow they managed to cram 18 seats into this little shop.  Tiny by my standards is small, tiny by Parisian standards is miniscule...by the end of the meal I had a new family!

Opted for Belleville this time around. Had spent an afternoon here and was glad to find a hostel not far from the park. Learned that Belleville has quite a history-  before being absorbed into Paris it was a hilltop village known for its vineyards and wine. During the Workers Uprising of the 'Paris Commune' the last barricade to fall was in Belleville. In fact the area is still home to the Parti Communiste Francais and two of the largest trade unions. It also has been home to many waves of immigrants, from Greeks, Jews, Armenians, Tunisians, Algerians, North and Sub-Saharan Africans, Chinese and Vietnamese. You can see the diversity as you oass by stores and shops with signs in varying languages and contents of all types.

And yes a new hostel experience because I have yet to find one in Paris I would return to. Hum, hostel living....it is an experience, on the one hand they all have that hostel-quality...and at the same time they each have their own flavor. This one is new and has very gregarious employees at the reception desk which I apreciate. Nothing worse than bored or apathetic hostel staff.

Someone asked me when I will be to old for a hostel. Not sure it is age that determines whether you can/ should stay at a hostel. I think maybe it is personal preference and state of mind. Things to note about hostels:

1. Hostels are a great place to meet other travelers
2. Hostels often organize activities or offer discounts to local activities
3. Hostels are all about communal living with a propensity for cliqueishness during university holidays
4. Hostels can be super inexpensive or as much as a low range hotel, especially in areas highly frequented by the backpacker set
5. Hostels may have quiet hours or they may encourage an all-night party atmosphere
6. Hostel reviews are like all other "reviews" - hit or miss
7. Wifi is not always free or consistent at a hostel
8. Breakfast of some sort or another is almost always included
9. Cleanliness seems to mirror the societal expectation of cleanliness
10. Bob Marley's music will be played ad nauseum at any hostel on or remotely near a beach
11. Most hostels will accommodate groups and families
12. If you are under 18 you will need to be with an adult in order to stay
13. In order to stay you must show a form of ID, generally a passport but other forms are accepted depending in the location and hostel requirements
14. Open and accessible kitchens can save you time and money, but not evey hostel has them
15. Some hostels allow their countrymen to stay but others do not. I find this to be fascinating.

And on that note i am off to meet the other travelers.

Until tomorrow.

Friday, August 30, 2013

Riding the Day Away

I told someone the other day I never go back. Meaning, forward or straight ahead are my preferred direction. Detours are appreciated and veering off is fine too but going back from where I came generally is not beneficial. Of course there are exceptions to this but they are rare; today such an exception occurred. 

I went for a long leisurely bicycle ride that was to take me around the lake. They have incredible bicycle paths here that take you under trees, behind houses, along the water, and through parks. They are wide enough for multiple bicycles and seem to be well utilized. I had heard it was 40-45 kilometers around the lake but had no map and honestly was not concerned. I figured I had most of the day to enjoy the sunshine and the spectacular views of the lake. 23 kilometers in I stopped to take a break, and eat a bit of food.

As I sat and enjoyed the view I wondered where I was and if the path did indeed go around the lake. I had seen a bicycle path around the lake but there were many paths and not many signs along the way. Then it happened, the worry...it just sort of slipped in there.

Where am I going? Where will this path take me? What if something happens to the bike? Do i know enough French to describe a bicycle problem? What if I am find a map and I am too far or too tired to ride back? What if, what if, what if???

As I am meandering my way through France these worries are as minor as they come.  So as a fairly reasonable person I recognized this AND the response of "well we don't ever go back" as both thoroughly unhelpful and a waste if energy. Rather I decided to continue eating and see how I felt when done.

Wouldn't you know that upon completion I was ready to go? not in the unknown direction but back from whence I came. And not out of worry but out of desire to see what I saw from a different direction. And what I found along the way were items I hadn't seen before and a different perspective of the path.

Sometimes it just makes sense to go back.

Oh what to do?

Ah I know...

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Saying Goodbye to the Alps

The 10 day trek is complete, I did not fall off a mountain and my body has shown no signs of revolt as it did a year ago! Success! 

Said goodbye to the beautiful alps this morning and headed away to Annecy. Arrived in freshly (and quite thoroughly) washed clothes with two of my treking pals and we strolled the streets of the old town until one had to depart for the next in a string of French adventures.

One more day here, maybe I will take a bike ride around the lake, or meander through the streets, or sit at cafe to write and people watch.

Stories and pictures to come....do you know how  long it takes to upload 407 photos on a hostel connection?!

Sunday, August 25, 2013

WiFi again?!

Another day with wifi, clearly we are in the valley and not high in the mountains. Arpette Switzerland- known for its ski slopes, blueberries and fondue.

Here are a few photos...more to come after the trek.

Saturday, August 24, 2013

La Fouly

A few pics from this morning...day 7. We start off in about 20 minutes- 15 ish kilometers of walking in the valleys with a bit of uphill at the end of the day. A light day really, if it were not for the rain which will come in about an hour.