it is rare to awake before the sun when one is on "holiday" but awake they did. rummaging through backpacks and shuffling through the dark and narrow aisle way was made easier by the light of a headlamp or a cell phone. The Guide looked on as the cell phone of Miss Prim and The Jewel emitted a bright stream of white light while headlamps pierced the darkness with a strong white beam. He wondered, "will the cell phone become the next best backpacker gadget- phone, camera, flashlight, gps, translator, and who knows what else?" He shook his head as he made his way around the sleepy hikers. Outside in the cool wet air he looked up at the Dome du Miage and entertained a curious thought, "will the cell phone become 'a guide' thus ending the centuries long tradition of alpine mountain guiding?"
Together The 9 sat down at the wooden tables. today will be first of many breakfasts of bread, jam, coffee and tea. breakfast is its own cultural phenomenon, a small glimpse into the differences of our way of life, not to mention our preferences. to some, this spread of homemade jams bursting of flavors from local berries and fruits, personifies the way of life in the alps, The Guide says, "it is like eating the grass, mountains and wind all at once. it isn't just to taste the fruits, you are tasting and smelling everything, the jam is just a way of being here in this moment, in this place."
this sentiment does not satiate the grumbling stomachs of Mr. Man or The Jewel. in coming days their stomachs won't be the only part of them grumbling at breakfast.
with the rising sun The 9 looked on as The Guide spread out the map. He pointed to their current location and expertly identified the route for the day, in both French and English, "vous voyez? you see?" and heads nodded in assent. with that, The 9 set off.
to a village for a bit of a break. it was market day so the town was bubbling with activity. Miss Prim, Mr. Man, and The Jewel happily explored the church and main street, marveling at the flowers, fresh foods, and overall beauty of this mountain village. Miss Prim especially enjoyed speaking to the local vendors, she would ask about the produce, their growing techniques, the effects of the climate and weather patterns, recipes, and seek their recommendations. The Missing Husband never quite understood all this chatter- peruse and purchase was his shopping motto- conversation just gets in the way.
Le Chamois had struck out ahead and arrived earlier than the rest giving her plenty of time to explore and grab an espresso. she was walking with purpose through the main street when the others greeted her with a happy "bonjour!" a look of confusion crossed her face as she cocked her head to one side, paused, and then replied, "oh i have had such a lovely espresso! but i suppose you won't have time for one though, i imagine we are just passing thru."
Together The 9 walked down the main street, and then along a small stream that led them out of the village. in a group it is important to stay relatively close together, especially the first few days as you are getting to know the terrain and The Guide is getting to know you. it does not mean everyone must walk all together, rather it means the group is within sight of each other. in this way, it allows individuals time to chat or to walk on their own. As it turns out, this understanding was not shared by each of the individuals in the group.
Le Chamois is used to leading, in all facets of her life she is most comfortable when there is a detailed plan and she is in a position of leadership. this is not to say she will not follow orders or defer to authority, she absolutely has and will- she and her troops survived in the middle east because of brilliant directives, she climbed Mount Everest under the watchful eye of an experienced climber. As a member of the military this is core to her training and ultimately, to her survival.
Arriving at Notre Dame du la Gorge, an 8th century church, the group shook off their backpacks for a short break to explore and enjoy the warmth of the sun. The Guide took this opportunity to talk with Le Chamois, specifically to share his concern that she walked further ahead and thus out of sight. She laughed at his concern stating, "i know the route, you showed us on the map, i will stop at each of the designated spots."
"it is not only about stopping, it is also my responsibility to be sure you are safe, that everyone is safe," said The Guide in a slightly perturbed tone. They stood looking at each other. Was it only a difference of understanding of a group led trek? or was it more? were there personal or cultural expectations? was this a result of miscommunication? or was it about power and authority? was it a male-female thing?
"fine," stated Le Chamois with pursed lips and furrowed brow.
The Guide watched as she turned to walk away, a faint smile (or was it a smirk?) appeared and just as quickly was gone. He turned as well and joined Oscar for a moment of solitude.
The 9 continued through the valley before heading up...and up...and up. After passing through snowfields and rocky terrain they stopped for a long lunch and rest.
They laid in the grass listening to cow bells, enjoying the long view from whence they came, and soaking in the Alpine sunshine.
The final ascent was long and slightly arduous. The chatter of the group members subsided as they focused on the narrow trail and loose rocks. Le Chamois led again but this time within sight of the others. Miss Prim, The Lady and The Gentleman walked together at times, sharing a joke or pointing at a flower in French. Mr. Man held a steady pace on his own while The Jewel and Oscar shared the path. They regrouped at what many hoped was "the top" but turned out to be a precursor to a winding path leading up to the hut of Bonhomme.
As they climbed the terrain changed again and they found sheets of glimmering rock which necessitated sunglasses when the sun shone just so. it was warm and the sun was strong, whereas a few minutes before they were wearing multiple layers, now they stripped down to the minimum. At some point Le Chamois disappeared from sight. The Jewel and Miss Prim were the first to notice. Then Mr. Man made a comment. Had Le Chamois kept her earlier conversation with The Guide to herself, they wouldn't have thought much about her whereabouts. When they arrived at the hut they expected her to be there waiting, but she was no where to be seen.
"It is a bit odd isn't it?" said Mr.Man to The Jewel and Miss Prim who nodded as they scanned the immense alpine landscape.
