I have come to the conclusion that my best writing about this trip will come after i have already arrived in Santiago. the limited internet access and my inability to post photos makes describing my days or telling my stories slightly difficult. still i think it will be hard to put all this into words no matter what.
hard to believe it is all coming to an end. of course it won´t really end as it is all kind of a new beginning. the Officer told us that there is a french saying that says when you leave on the pilgrimmage you leave as a walker-hiker-traveler but you return a pilgrim and stay that way. amazing thought.
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
a much needed day of rest
*a note- no more names, as per usual i will refer to people by their inspired (or not so inspired) moniker.
today is a day of rest for 3 of us. the others came to Astorga yesterday and went on this morning but 3 of us decided we needed a day of rest. we head over the mountains into Galicia in the next few days and have had some long days in the past week so we are in need of a break. the Officer is still healing and we are hoping 4 days of rest will help (he took a bus ahead to Astorga a few days ago). the Camino has been rough on the Officer- ankle sprain, bad cold, blisters and all that on top of the injuries he sustained in Afghanistan- a reconstructed ankle still isn´t the same as the one he had before. for the Healer, this is week 9 of his journey as he started in Strassburg so he certainly could use a break. Astorga is a perfect place too, not too big but plenty to do. so while we all physically need a day, mentally we also need time to explore and let our minds prep for the final push. we are estimating 10 more days to Santiago. which will mean 1 month from starting out most of our little Camino family will be strolling through Santiago at the same time. that is the hope anyway. Ovi (an exception to the name rule as there is no better descriptor than Ovi!) is off with the Scientist as they walk well together and we are hoping our paths will cross again soon. maybe for a night of sleeping under the stars in the legendary haunted forest in Galicia. granted we don´t exactly know where the forest is but the legends are told all along the Camino and we are determined to sleep outdoors at least once during this epoch journey. so while it is the Healer, the Officer and myself we had a fabulous dinner with much of the ¨family¨last night, and are hoping to run into the others towards the end.
one day i will tell the stories of the Runner (Ireland), the Speaker of the Camino (Britain), the Doctor of the Camino (Israel), the Funny Canadian (obviously Canada), the future Priest (Spain), the Scientist (Germany), the Hungarian (umm...Hungary), the Silent One (Germany)...
well time is running out at the internet cafe. gotta run...no wait, just strolling today.
today is a day of rest for 3 of us. the others came to Astorga yesterday and went on this morning but 3 of us decided we needed a day of rest. we head over the mountains into Galicia in the next few days and have had some long days in the past week so we are in need of a break. the Officer is still healing and we are hoping 4 days of rest will help (he took a bus ahead to Astorga a few days ago). the Camino has been rough on the Officer- ankle sprain, bad cold, blisters and all that on top of the injuries he sustained in Afghanistan- a reconstructed ankle still isn´t the same as the one he had before. for the Healer, this is week 9 of his journey as he started in Strassburg so he certainly could use a break. Astorga is a perfect place too, not too big but plenty to do. so while we all physically need a day, mentally we also need time to explore and let our minds prep for the final push. we are estimating 10 more days to Santiago. which will mean 1 month from starting out most of our little Camino family will be strolling through Santiago at the same time. that is the hope anyway. Ovi (an exception to the name rule as there is no better descriptor than Ovi!) is off with the Scientist as they walk well together and we are hoping our paths will cross again soon. maybe for a night of sleeping under the stars in the legendary haunted forest in Galicia. granted we don´t exactly know where the forest is but the legends are told all along the Camino and we are determined to sleep outdoors at least once during this epoch journey. so while it is the Healer, the Officer and myself we had a fabulous dinner with much of the ¨family¨last night, and are hoping to run into the others towards the end.
one day i will tell the stories of the Runner (Ireland), the Speaker of the Camino (Britain), the Doctor of the Camino (Israel), the Funny Canadian (obviously Canada), the future Priest (Spain), the Scientist (Germany), the Hungarian (umm...Hungary), the Silent One (Germany)...
well time is running out at the internet cafe. gotta run...no wait, just strolling today.
Sunday, May 13, 2012
long days
the last few days we have working to cross the Spanish meseta...flat land with little shade and lots of heat...many say it is the most boring and unbearable part of the camino. it has been challenging but mainly because we have logged many kilometers in only a few days. we were averaging 27-30 and this week had multiple days of 35-41...so there was a day that was just plain hard, physically and emotionally. today was a light day, only 28 kilometers and tomorrow will be easy breezy as it is only 17 kilometers to Astorga where we have agreed to stay an extra day for rest. we need it as our bodies are tired, we all have picked up some sort of sore throat-cold, and there are injuries that need a moment to heal. hurray for Astorga!
one of the constant conversations is about blisters because inevitably you get them. there are a random few who do not but i figure if you don´t get them you are missing out. the amount of advice, compassion, laughter, disgust and some fascination, that are shared along the road just broaden the experience. i am happy to say my blisters are healing- the worst were certainly on my toes and heels...i won´t go into detail but let me just say it made my pre-half marathon feet look beautiful!
one of the constant conversations is about blisters because inevitably you get them. there are a random few who do not but i figure if you don´t get them you are missing out. the amount of advice, compassion, laughter, disgust and some fascination, that are shared along the road just broaden the experience. i am happy to say my blisters are healing- the worst were certainly on my toes and heels...i won´t go into detail but let me just say it made my pre-half marathon feet look beautiful!
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Burgos...and a fabulous reunion
so we had planned, worst case scenario Michael, myself, Ovi and Jocelin would meet up at the cathedral in Burgos tonight at 6pm...so the scene is set, Michael and i have walked together since we parted ways with the others and were fairly clear about Jocelin´s plan but not Ovi´s as he had not showed up in Santo Domingo as planned. Michael and i walked on and enjoyed time with new-old friends of the Camino along the path and in the alburgues at night. it turns out the reunion plan was one part of the Camino gossip and so all we heard the last few days was, ¨will Ovi show up? will you all be reunited?¨ ...it´s a funny thing. we all met within the first 2 days, between San Jean and Roncevalles, and we just clicked- our pace was similar, our interests compimentary, our enjoyment of picnics along the route, and ultimately our joy of each other continued to bring us together...and so while we lost Bram the 4 of us have been a good team and one that others have gotten used to seeing along the Camino. and as i mentioned, the reunion apparently was the talk of the Camino...so when Michael, myself and Donna (our Canadian friend) arrived early in Burgos we had some coffee and then decided to head over to the cathedral to check it out. and as the bells were ringing at this astoundingly beautiful cathedral we began across the sunny square and who do you think we saw? Jocelin and Ovi! it was quite a reunion!!!
as it turns out Jocelin had stayed in the town we had left him in and Ovi had went on but rather than getting to Santo Domingo he stopped before. the following day he walked a bit and figured he was just a few kilometers behind us (i have forgotten miles and am thinking entirely in kilometers these days so forgive me for not converting). the following day he walked a bit more and then decided the pain in his leg was too much (has now been diagnosed as shin splints) and so he jumped on a bus. who do you think was on the same bus? yes indeed, Jocelin!
i imagine our reunion was quite a site to those sitting peacefully in the square. laughter, hugs, and much chatter as we all tried to share our thoughts and stories of the past few days! it was quite an affair!
and to add to the fun, Donna was with us and later we reconnected with other friends as well. our tradition of Pizza Sundays was started on this night and it was followed by some fabulous desserts and more fun with our growing Camino family.
a very good day overall as it was light...only 22 kilometers of walking today and my achilles-ankles thank me as they are quite sore and swollen at this point. the many blisters have begun to go away and i am now left with ongoing soreness and discomfort but you know it´s life so on you go. thankfully today was a kind of day of rest so i hope it will help in the healing as tomorrow we have almost 30 kilometers to cover.
note- i would love to post photos but most of the computers i have found so far will not allow for uploading of photos...let me just say that the country so far has been beyond beautiful. astoundingly beautiful is the best i can do.
oh and by the way, Spain is not all sun and warmth as i had mistakenly believed. as it turns out it rains and even hails here quite a bit. yesterday we encountered rainbows, rain, sun, hail, rain, sun, rain, hail, sun, hail and then just cool air. never again will i believe that Spain is purely sunny and warm!!!
ok off to bed!
as it turns out Jocelin had stayed in the town we had left him in and Ovi had went on but rather than getting to Santo Domingo he stopped before. the following day he walked a bit and figured he was just a few kilometers behind us (i have forgotten miles and am thinking entirely in kilometers these days so forgive me for not converting). the following day he walked a bit more and then decided the pain in his leg was too much (has now been diagnosed as shin splints) and so he jumped on a bus. who do you think was on the same bus? yes indeed, Jocelin!
i imagine our reunion was quite a site to those sitting peacefully in the square. laughter, hugs, and much chatter as we all tried to share our thoughts and stories of the past few days! it was quite an affair!
and to add to the fun, Donna was with us and later we reconnected with other friends as well. our tradition of Pizza Sundays was started on this night and it was followed by some fabulous desserts and more fun with our growing Camino family.
a very good day overall as it was light...only 22 kilometers of walking today and my achilles-ankles thank me as they are quite sore and swollen at this point. the many blisters have begun to go away and i am now left with ongoing soreness and discomfort but you know it´s life so on you go. thankfully today was a kind of day of rest so i hope it will help in the healing as tomorrow we have almost 30 kilometers to cover.
note- i would love to post photos but most of the computers i have found so far will not allow for uploading of photos...let me just say that the country so far has been beyond beautiful. astoundingly beautiful is the best i can do.
oh and by the way, Spain is not all sun and warmth as i had mistakenly believed. as it turns out it rains and even hails here quite a bit. yesterday we encountered rainbows, rain, sun, hail, rain, sun, rain, hail, sun, hail and then just cool air. never again will i believe that Spain is purely sunny and warm!!!
ok off to bed!
Friday, May 4, 2012
spain spain and more spain
only 553 more kilometers to Santiago!
just crossed into the Castillo y Leon region...basque country, wine country both have been seen and done! hard to believe and so much to say about both. i will try to post more later today are at least in the next few days as we have shorter distances until Burgos. when i say shorter i should explain that today was only 23 kilometers...very short compared to what we are averaging...28ish a day! so tomorrow i think is about 26 k and then another 27 to Burgos. the goal is to be in Burgos on Sunday and possibly stay there Monday as well.
our team, the "A Team" as we have dubbed ourselves- has dwindled with Bram staying behind a few days ago to fix a torn backpack and nurse a sore knee. then yesterday our french officer stayed behind and Ovi never showed in Santo Domingo. so it is Michael and i unless Ovi makes a miraculous appearance...otherwise the back up plan is we all meet in Burgos at the cathedral at 6pm...on verra!
hasta luego
just crossed into the Castillo y Leon region...basque country, wine country both have been seen and done! hard to believe and so much to say about both. i will try to post more later today are at least in the next few days as we have shorter distances until Burgos. when i say shorter i should explain that today was only 23 kilometers...very short compared to what we are averaging...28ish a day! so tomorrow i think is about 26 k and then another 27 to Burgos. the goal is to be in Burgos on Sunday and possibly stay there Monday as well.
our team, the "A Team" as we have dubbed ourselves- has dwindled with Bram staying behind a few days ago to fix a torn backpack and nurse a sore knee. then yesterday our french officer stayed behind and Ovi never showed in Santo Domingo. so it is Michael and i unless Ovi makes a miraculous appearance...otherwise the back up plan is we all meet in Burgos at the cathedral at 6pm...on verra!
hasta luego
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
day 6 of the Camino!
first chance to access the internet and i have just completed day six on the El Camino! who would have thought it would be that hard to update the blog and communicate with everyone regarding this crazy adventure i am on. so, at the moment i am in Viana Spain. the first time we have seen a flag from Spain as all the other time spent in Spain was in Basque country where the Basque culture reigns. it has been a fascinating, fun and unique experience so far and there is so much to say...
firstly, thus far i have met and talked with people from all over the world- Japan, Netherlands, France, Spain, Germany, Lithuania, Romania, Brazil, Italy, China, South Africa, Canada, Belgium, England, Ireland, Korea, Argentina! the average age range of folks walking the El Camino is about 50ish. the average temperature and terrain depends on the day and the time of day as you walk through it all.
the first day was surreal. i started in San Jean Pied de Port, France and ended in Roncevalles, Spain.crossing the Pyrenes via the route de Napoleon included beautiful views, rain, fog, heavy winds, mud, rocky terrain, a strange leafy terrain that came up to my knee, snow (!) and lots of incline and decline.at the end, upon arrival at Roncevalles, we all collectively felt wet, cold and incredibly happy to have accomplished something so very unique.
I have met many people and a few of us have come to form a little pack which may or may not change but nonetheless they all will be mentioned in future postings and have been a great addition to my life so far...they are:
Ovi- Romanian graphic designer
Bram- Dutch software engineer
Michele- German carpenter and cranial phyisiotherapist
Goselyn- French Navy officer
we have been walking together each day and it has been great fun walking, talking, observing, listening and spending time together.
here is the summary so far:
Day 1: San Jean Pied de Port, France to Roncevalles
Day 2: Roncevalles, Spain to Larrasoana
Day 3: Larrasona to Pamplona
Day 4: Larrasona to Cirauiqui
Day 5: Cirauiqui to Monjardin
Day 6: Mondardin to Viana
more very soon i hope. until then, much love!
firstly, thus far i have met and talked with people from all over the world- Japan, Netherlands, France, Spain, Germany, Lithuania, Romania, Brazil, Italy, China, South Africa, Canada, Belgium, England, Ireland, Korea, Argentina! the average age range of folks walking the El Camino is about 50ish. the average temperature and terrain depends on the day and the time of day as you walk through it all.
the first day was surreal. i started in San Jean Pied de Port, France and ended in Roncevalles, Spain.crossing the Pyrenes via the route de Napoleon included beautiful views, rain, fog, heavy winds, mud, rocky terrain, a strange leafy terrain that came up to my knee, snow (!) and lots of incline and decline.at the end, upon arrival at Roncevalles, we all collectively felt wet, cold and incredibly happy to have accomplished something so very unique.
I have met many people and a few of us have come to form a little pack which may or may not change but nonetheless they all will be mentioned in future postings and have been a great addition to my life so far...they are:
Ovi- Romanian graphic designer
Bram- Dutch software engineer
Michele- German carpenter and cranial phyisiotherapist
Goselyn- French Navy officer
we have been walking together each day and it has been great fun walking, talking, observing, listening and spending time together.
here is the summary so far:
Day 1: San Jean Pied de Port, France to Roncevalles
Day 2: Roncevalles, Spain to Larrasoana
Day 3: Larrasona to Pamplona
Day 4: Larrasona to Cirauiqui
Day 5: Cirauiqui to Monjardin
Day 6: Mondardin to Viana
more very soon i hope. until then, much love!
Monday, April 23, 2012
PARIS!
all my belongings (a huge phew!) and i arrived in Paris this morning (well morning in Paris anyway) and my first day in France has been a productive one.
- succeeded in taking the Metro from the airport to the stop closest to my hostel...i love public transport that makes sense. lines with differing colors, line names that actually use the destination in the line name...even the maps and kiosiks where one buys the tickets makes sense!
- checked in and stored my luggage. this hostel does not allow you in the rooms from 11-5 for cleaning which i usually have mixed feelings about but for today it was totally fine because i just wanted to leave my bags and go
- found my way (by Metro it was so easy!) to the train station to purchase my tickets to San Jean Pied de Port. my first foray in the usage of French while actually in France. the first person i spoke with seemed kind of annoyed with me from the start, maybe i shouldn't have started with "ok...je parle un peu de francais..." i continued on but by that point she looked at me as if i was speaking anything but French and pointed me to another agent. i tried again with this agent-who according to the flags next to her name also spoke german and english- i felt the need to try and possibly redeem myself and hurray! it worked, the entire transaction in French!
- meanwhile it has been raining and cloudy all day...and it is about 50 degrees which is really cold since i was in 99 degree weather yesterday! i figured i should still get out and walk around despite the weather and found myself wandering through the streets of Paris when i looked up to see the top1/4 section of the Eiffel Tower peaking out behind the trees. soon enough i was standing in the rain looking up at the soaring tower.
- of course i couldn't truly enjoy the day until i had some sort of French-ish food item. i bought a warm and crusty baguette to munch on as i walked through the wet city, marvelling at the fact that i am really in Paris!
til later
- succeeded in taking the Metro from the airport to the stop closest to my hostel...i love public transport that makes sense. lines with differing colors, line names that actually use the destination in the line name...even the maps and kiosiks where one buys the tickets makes sense!
- checked in and stored my luggage. this hostel does not allow you in the rooms from 11-5 for cleaning which i usually have mixed feelings about but for today it was totally fine because i just wanted to leave my bags and go
- found my way (by Metro it was so easy!) to the train station to purchase my tickets to San Jean Pied de Port. my first foray in the usage of French while actually in France. the first person i spoke with seemed kind of annoyed with me from the start, maybe i shouldn't have started with "ok...je parle un peu de francais..." i continued on but by that point she looked at me as if i was speaking anything but French and pointed me to another agent. i tried again with this agent-who according to the flags next to her name also spoke german and english- i felt the need to try and possibly redeem myself and hurray! it worked, the entire transaction in French!
- meanwhile it has been raining and cloudy all day...and it is about 50 degrees which is really cold since i was in 99 degree weather yesterday! i figured i should still get out and walk around despite the weather and found myself wandering through the streets of Paris when i looked up to see the top1/4 section of the Eiffel Tower peaking out behind the trees. soon enough i was standing in the rain looking up at the soaring tower.
- of course i couldn't truly enjoy the day until i had some sort of French-ish food item. i bought a warm and crusty baguette to munch on as i walked through the wet city, marvelling at the fact that i am really in Paris!
til later
Saturday, April 21, 2012
on the road & in the air
i am now hours away from cars, planes, trains and buses...soon i will be in transit! just me and my backpack. the nerves are giving way to excitement as all that can be done is done and the packing-repacking game is about to end. thanks for all the advice, ideas, love and support! i will post again from the other side of the globe!
à bientôt!
à bientôt!
Thursday, April 19, 2012
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
i don't leave for Europe for about a week but while time is being spent with friends and family it does feel as though i am sort of like a piece of luggage that has somehow missed its final connection and is being rerouted every few days. of course i am better off each day i am in a new place versus this illusive piece of luggage that is actually worse with each day of travel and mishandling. speaking of luggage, i have never been one to worry about my luggage. two reasons- first i usually carry on so whatever i have is with me and second because i figure whatever i check i can afford to lose. HOWEVER i am now borderline paranoid about my luggage for this trip because i cannot carry on all the contents in my backpack. again 2 reasons- pocketknife/other sharp items and liquids. oh and the size limit, yes the backpack full of stuff will definitely exceed the "all carry ons must be able to fit easily into the narrow rectangular tool placed beside the podium" (this by the way was obviously designed by someone who believes we all travel with a leather suitcase a la a traveling salesman). and so, this leaves me with no choice but to check something, probably a small bag of items i can reasonably afford to lose. at this point i am not sure what those items would be but i will have to figure it out because i will not be checking my beautiful new backpack, the sleeping bag, my hiking boots or other items that took an incomprehensible amount of time and energy to find. maybe i am being dramatic. hmm, no no i am not. i spent serious amounts of time researching, reviewing, perusing, purchasing and/or procuring many items for this trip and i cannot imagine the a mad dash through Paris to replace said items. surely it would be laughable for the Parisians though. jeez, if there was ever a trip for the my baggage to go missing or be re-routed to the mountains of Mongolia (did you know they have 3 major mountain ranges?), this would be the one.
until another day...
until another day...
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