Friday...the one before Easter

This week of Semana Santa the beach is no longer barren, rather each day brings more children and families who wade in the water and wander in the surf. At this moment I estimate under a hundred people in the water where just days before it was only a handful. Now, not only are there people, but music, a man selling ice cream, and lifeguards. In my list trip to Nicaragua, I was told that most Nicas do not know how to swim. The young men, under 30 are more likely to have learned the basics but generally they are not comfortable swimming. Women and girls of any age I am told, rarely if ever, know how to swim. So what you see on the beach or at the lakes is people wading in the water, running from the oncoming waves and rarely going beyond waist high water. Having grown up in the states, I iniatlly found it a bit odd, but it did not take long to appreciate the small groups of people enjoying the water despite their limited swimming abilities. The lifeguards have been brought in specifically for this week and you can guess there have been incidents of drowning or near drowning. Little swimming experience, the inconsistencies of the ocean, and alcohol are each problematic on the beach and when added together, well it is almost predictable that some unfortunate accident will occur.

The women who work here told us of the fiesta that will occur tonight in the town square. Promises of music, dancing, alcohol and fun have not elicited much excitement in the group. No one has expressly said why but I imagine it may have something to do with the high men to women ratio, the delicate balance between locals and gringos that becomes tenuous when alcohol is consumed, and the exhaustion that sets in at about 7:30pm after surfing since 5 in the morning.

Speaking of surfing, I have a new surf teacher. He is less guru and more teacher which is fine because the guru is still here and available for periodic moments of enlightenment. The new teacher, a new surf instructor who arrived directly from Hawaii, is patient, confident and direct in his teaching. This morning’s lesson did not result in my successfully standing on the board (standing on a board for under 3 seconds generally does not count and with this teacher you must be up for at least 5 for it to count), but it was successful in that I was made to ride over, in and through waves that normally I would have turned away from. As the guru told me after a frustrating session yesterday, it is time in the water that will make you a surfer not time on the waves. The former financier, the travel companion who has yet to earn a respectable moniker for this blog, is still acting as my trainer. We are out almost every day to work on my paddling, turning and balance, it is this type of training which will enable me to withstand hours in the water no matter the weather.

The teacher suggested a few additions to the training routine, mainly more balancing exercises and a few days of what can best be described as getting hit with walls of water on purpose. Of course improved balance should need no explanation and apparently it is a concern of all surfers, no matter their level. The other suggestion, that I willingly paddle and float into breaking or almost breaking waves, is logical if you remember that a significant portion of surfing is getting out past the breaking waves. Still, when laying atop a 8 foot piece of fiberglass and facing a wall of water that is at the apex of its life, the only logic accessible is “let’s get the hell out of here!”

There was a moment, as the day was coming to a close, when I looked along the beach and saw the sky. It occurred to me that since I arrived, I have looked more toward the sea than the sky. Two beautiful sunsets aside, I have watched the waves and begun to notice the subtleties of the water pouring forth. So at this moment, I looked up to see a light blue sky with scattered puffy white clouds. A wind blew, stronger than the past few days, bending the small tree branches, lifting the hammocks and sending the plastic water bottles flying among the tables. Back home this might mean rain, but here it means…well I am not sure, I need more time to know that.

Until next time...Enjoy Passover and Happy Easter!

a walk along the beach- Puerto Sandino

Walking along the beach I marvel at the solitude I find. I am alone. Literally, one can walk the beach and encounter nary a soul. There are times a small wooden boat with an outboard motor can be seen departing or arriving in front of one of the small homes but those can be counted on one hand. The homes while small are colorful, their ornate facades facing the beach and dually protected by small trees, sparse vegetation, and up turned boats. none of these homes sport the muted colors of many a beach town in the states. As I walk, a line of clothing dries in the sun, dogs bark, the laughter of children floats beyond the trees, and a breeze dances on my skin in the hot Nicaraguan sun.

my new existence

I am starting to get used to waking up and walking out to a view of the Pacific. The dark sand is not yet hot to the touch and the ocean is a muted grey blue as it slowly rolls to shore. By mid-day, the sun causes a brilliant effect upon the sea, as though diamonds have been strewn atop to sparkle for all to see. Scattered among tables and hammocks, are new friends who share more than meals and a place to stay; we are sharing these moments of our lives in Nicaragua. I have been welcomed by an already formed crew of about 10 who have been inhabiting the premises for weeks, months and years. The “staff” includes owners, surf instructors, cooks, maintenance, all of whom have set responsibilities but share many overlapping duties day in and day out. I suppose I am one of 3 guests, joining a couple who currently live in the UK but have found themselves all over the world due to his job in the British military. This vacation is their first in Nicaragua, and has thus far fulfilled their desire for a new destination WITH surfing opportunities. Hearing about Nicaragua and this surf camp from the cousin of one of the owners, this couple decided to take a chance on a country of which they had heard very little prior to the recommendation.

The days are slow and revolve around surfing, ah it is a surf camp so this should surprise no one. As the only beginner on site, I find myself as the constant observer and sometimes student. With an incredibly patient surf instructor who has the manner of guru versus a teacher, I found myself standing on a surf board time and time again. Granted, I only had the time to realize I was standing and soon enough was back in the water next to the board rather than on it! Still, it was more than I expected and while standing seemed a feat in and of itself, my comfort with the process of learning something new, something as exciting and seemingly dangerous as surfing, has stayed with me for days.

This morning included a session of basics on the board. No standing or riding waves. Today was a lesson in balance on the board whether seated or laying, paddling, turning, and just sitting and watching the water. It was just what I needed as the excitement of my first lesson had dissipated and in its place was nervous energy. This morning’s lesson is best compared to a session with a coach or trainer who walks you through each step, watches you master each step, and then has you repeat in varied sequences until you show a level of mastery which is sufficient for the day. I was promised a similar regimen tomorrow morning before our departure to Managua for the weekend.

On the road beach again!

I love airports. People of all walks of life thrown together to share the experience of travel. Together we are subject to the debatably necessary TSA regulations, the drivel which is shown on the newly installed flat screen tvs at the gates, and the overpriced items dispersed throughout the terminals. Here’s a question, can the numerous people walking through the terminals in their socks or barefoot be attributed to the security measures or is it a reflection of our society?

My itinerary included a red eye to Miami, a 5 hour layover, immigration, customs, and a drastic change in climate. It was 52 degrees and minimal humidity when I left and 94 with 62% humidity when I arrived in Nicaragua!

Only an hour after arriving in Managua I was on the road to the surf camp (a few hours away) with he who hates blogs and one of the surf instructor. Having been in Nicaragua before it felt familiar and yet days later, I find myself momentarily wondering where I am. The surf camp is its own little world. on the beach, everything faces the water. It is small but not cramped, it is open but not exposed. it is a world away from where I just was.

the packing and re-packing is over. the backpack, a much smaller version of my last one, is holding all the essentials for at least the next two months. that is the best i can do as at this moment i am only really sure of my plans for the next two months. i have spent the last few months visiting friends and family in the states, hopping over to Europe, exploring Puerto Rico, and all the while studying for a rather important exam. i am happy and relieved to have passed said exam last week and as i was contemplating a fitting demise for my test prep materials i realized these same materials have had quite a run. people lose luggage and sunglasses and papers all the time, but somehow, these materials have been with me through it all. if i hadn't passed the exam i might have found it sort of a cruel joke.

in a few hours i will be on a plane bound for Nicaragua. funny how one of the cities i actively worked to avoid throughout my last jaunt through central america is now going to be where i am landing. ah yes, Managua. the plan is to spend only a few hours there before heading to the beach. yes i did say beach. while i spent much time exploring the cities of Nicaragua on my last visit, i will be spending considerable time on the beach on this visit. where else would one learn how to surf?

Firenze!

it was a quick jaunt to Florence; a weekend away from the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam perhaps. this time of year the weather is cool and rainy; it did not deviate from the norm on my behalf.

so what does one do with only a weekend to explore a historic, art-filled city like Florence? well, firstly you throw open the windows of your home away from home for a view of your surroundings.

next you amble through the narrow streets

and at each turn you marvel at the Florentine statues and architecture

later, you climb the 414 steps to the top of the Campanile (aka bell tower) for breathtaking views of the the Duomo and Florence.

beware the bells, they do toll!

and finally, at night you walk again, this time to see the Duomo.

looking ahead

still have photos to throw up here and a story or two to tell but that will have to wait a bit. for now i am back in the city by the bay to wrap up a few things. soon enough though i will need to catch this blog up as i have new travels ahead and surely will have stories to tell. the dreary grey and rain that is typical this time of year has been a bit of a struggle as i have been spoiled by lots of sunshine the past few months. i find myself saying, "how do people live in this climate?!" ah how soon we forget.

after numerous conversations it has been decided that i currently live nowhere and everywhere. friends have attempted to introduce me to new folks but get caught up in where i live. it's a problem we should all be so lucky to have i suppose. for now though, when it comes up, i have been reduced to saying the location of wherever i am in the moment. that hasn't gone over so well with those in customer service , imagine their frustration when i say, "well where am i now? oh Puerto Rico. great, yes that is where i live."

i have started a packing list for the next trip, it appears i am returning to Nicaragua. it is easier packing for a place i have been and hopefully i will find success in bringing what will be the equivalent of 2 carry-on bags. now if i could only find the list of things i "should have brought" that i wrote while traveling through Central America just a few months ago...

let's start from the beginning

from AZ i went to NYC to see the Diva in her own phenomenal cabaret show. NYC has much to offer and we enjoyed it all for the short time i was there. one of the best moments (besides the fantastic performance) ice skating...

and then before i knew it i was on a plane headed to Amsterdam!

here are a few photos from the first day. this one is a street corner close to Cafe Americain which served a fabulous cup of coffee :-)

as a way to get to know the city a canal tour was in order.

it was a perfect winter day, cool and sunny with a few clouds.

Houseboats!

Bikes!!

February

ok ok i am so ridiculously behind on the blog. i offer no excuses other than to say that February looked like this:

Arizona (country #1)

NYC (still in country #1)

Amsterdam, Netherlands (country #2)

Florence, Italy (country #3)

Amsterdam, Netherlands (back to country #2)

NYC (back to country #1)

Puerto Rico (technically country #1 as it is a commonwealth of the US)

NYC (back to country #1)

Arizona (stayed in country #1)

all that in 28 days.

i will put up photos of the Feb travels in the next week or so and in the meantime accumulate new photos from current adventures. i am happy to say i have no plans to leave the country for the next month or so. of course by next week i will probably kick myself for having that plan!

can you guess where i am now???