my last post i was a bit lonely and feeling the itch to leave and my response was to hop on a bus the next morning to La Fortuna with a few other travelers. it was a day of travel across the Costa Rica country-side and it resulted in a new region and a new perspective. Watching an active volcano spew lava and gases will give you lots to think about and after today's adventures in the canopy of Monteverde i am feeling pretty good. Costa Rica is certainly the "vacation" part of my trip...where else will i spend money to zipline over/through rainforests at the height of 1,000 meters? or go horseback riding through rainforests and coffee fincas? or even walk across thin suspension bridges in the cloud-rainforests? good times!
also, new friends are always much appreciated and i have met some great people the past few days. of course we meet spend a day or two together and go our separate ways but sometimes that is all it takes to enjoy the moment or start a lifelong friendship. Speaking of friendship, thanks to all the friends and family who have made comments on the blog or via email...i really love hearing from you!!!
off to plan tomorrow's adventures...pura vida!
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Sometimes it doesn´t matter where you are...
you just get lonely. I suppose there is something pleasant about that, i suppose it shows that no matter where you go you and your feelings are still there. but at the moment that doesn´t really make me feel better.
i can acknowledge that in this sweet little hostel in the small town of Cahuita along the Costa Rica coast i am incredibly blessed with beauty and safety. so in a foreign country what more could you ask for? i should be happy with this right? and i am quite appreciative...and i am lonely. maybe it is that at this hostel all around me are groups or friends or couples. i am the only solo traveler...which is not new and often times it doesn´t bother me. but tonight, right now...it does.
another day i will write about my border crossing and the hostel excitement that occurred in Bocas. Hostels...they are interesting places, i am surprised no one has written about their experiences working or staying at them because i thing the book would be fascinating and filled with all sorts of crazy, funny, interesting and random stories. maybe someone already has...
well that is all for now. off to figure out dinner- to go out alone or pick up some food to make and eat at the hostel. ah decisions decisions.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
A lazy morning
A small fire in the hostel last night resulted in little sleep for the staff, crowded rooms, loss of some items and an unusually quiet morning...thus i am taking the moment to reflect upon my time here in Panama.
I haven't written much, if anything about my time in Volcan and the beautiful highlands of Panama. The area is best known for it's coffee fincas and the large indigenous population (Ngobe-Bugle). I was there at the invitation of friends who were there for part of the summer and without the invitation i am not sure i would have went or if i did, if i would have learned so much about the area and it's inhabitants. The region is exceptionally beautiful with a tranquility that permeates the soul upon your arrival and leaves you moving at a slower, if not more deliberate pace. I was caught off guard by this and it took time to adjust. of course that is to be expected and certainly will be an ongoing thing as i travel and stop for only brief moments of time. still i must point out while i learned a tremendous amount about the highlands and was astounded by the beauty of the area, the birds and the people, what most impacted me was the time with my friends.
seeing good friends in a different country, and in this situation a country that may become their home, was undeniably fun and at times hard to wrap my mind around. Of course i mean that in a good way. i suppose what i mean to say is that the mind automatically goes to what it knows, so close friends you have known for many years and shared many experiences should be those same friends wherever you are...but when there is a new culture and language i think the mind needs some time to come up with a new way of understanding and integrating the the experiences/interactions. it is only now that i can put all this into words and acknowledge the shift that has occurred in my brain that will allow for a greater understanding of the lives of my friends.
leaving Volcan required a bus ride through the country-side of Panama, a ride i highly recommend for it's beauty and for the transition from coffee to bananas; it is not to be missed. following the bus was a 10 minute ride in the back of a truck, a water taxi from Almirante to Bocas del Toro, and a short walk down the main street to the hostel.
the hostel here in Bocas is as you would expect- travelers from around the world coming and going, other travelers deciding to prolong their time here by rearranging their plans or scrapping the plans entirely, and a small handful of volunteers and professionals who are now based somewhere in Panama doing quite interesting and unique work. the bonds that form in the span of a few hours are only intensified by sharing a room, a meal and a day in the hostel world. each hostel is in it's own way unique and dynamic, and yet the experiences in each one all follow a certain script with each of us playing the part of someone who was here before we arrived...
random and not so deep thoughts...it's time for some coffee.
I haven't written much, if anything about my time in Volcan and the beautiful highlands of Panama. The area is best known for it's coffee fincas and the large indigenous population (Ngobe-Bugle). I was there at the invitation of friends who were there for part of the summer and without the invitation i am not sure i would have went or if i did, if i would have learned so much about the area and it's inhabitants. The region is exceptionally beautiful with a tranquility that permeates the soul upon your arrival and leaves you moving at a slower, if not more deliberate pace. I was caught off guard by this and it took time to adjust. of course that is to be expected and certainly will be an ongoing thing as i travel and stop for only brief moments of time. still i must point out while i learned a tremendous amount about the highlands and was astounded by the beauty of the area, the birds and the people, what most impacted me was the time with my friends.
seeing good friends in a different country, and in this situation a country that may become their home, was undeniably fun and at times hard to wrap my mind around. Of course i mean that in a good way. i suppose what i mean to say is that the mind automatically goes to what it knows, so close friends you have known for many years and shared many experiences should be those same friends wherever you are...but when there is a new culture and language i think the mind needs some time to come up with a new way of understanding and integrating the the experiences/interactions. it is only now that i can put all this into words and acknowledge the shift that has occurred in my brain that will allow for a greater understanding of the lives of my friends.
leaving Volcan required a bus ride through the country-side of Panama, a ride i highly recommend for it's beauty and for the transition from coffee to bananas; it is not to be missed. following the bus was a 10 minute ride in the back of a truck, a water taxi from Almirante to Bocas del Toro, and a short walk down the main street to the hostel.
the hostel here in Bocas is as you would expect- travelers from around the world coming and going, other travelers deciding to prolong their time here by rearranging their plans or scrapping the plans entirely, and a small handful of volunteers and professionals who are now based somewhere in Panama doing quite interesting and unique work. the bonds that form in the span of a few hours are only intensified by sharing a room, a meal and a day in the hostel world. each hostel is in it's own way unique and dynamic, and yet the experiences in each one all follow a certain script with each of us playing the part of someone who was here before we arrived...
random and not so deep thoughts...it's time for some coffee.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Bocas del Toro
I am on the main island but spent the day visiting some of the other islands which have beautiful beaches that are relatively untouched and are a mix of rainforest/jungle and beach. I could talk all about the snorkeling i did and the wonderful world at the bottom of the ocean or i could tell you about the dolphins that appeared out of nowhere throughout the morning or the sloth hanging upside-down in the tree in the nature preserve.
How long i will stay has yet to be determined...a few days or a week...either way the memory of the mountains, forests and beaches of Panama will stay with me for years to come.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Panama City...where do i even begin?
Ok so to be fair by the time i arrived in Panama i was exhausted and still holding a grudge so Panama had some major work to do to redeem itself in my eyes. So why the ill will? Panama has this policy that in order to enter the country you must have proof that you are leaving, other countries have the same policy but i have never seen it enforced. well this time it was. i wasn't planning on staying, i just didn't have a ticket out of the country because i planned/plan on taking the bus to the border and walking across...much like i have done in other countries. however it seems that when flying into Panama this rule is enforced by the airline. mind you, the same airline that sold me the one way ticket from Mexico City to Panama without telling me this might be an issue. In my mind, logically the airline should never have allowed me to purchase the ticket or should have at the very least noted this fact when i was in the process of purchasing this ticket...but alas. So there i am at the gate denied the ability to board and told that they will put me on a flight the following morning at 7am provided i have proof that i will be leaving the country. my choices? purchase a plane ticket out of Panama...can't purchase bus tickets and didn't have a computer oh and the only computers in the airport were at the hotels. nice. obviously i arrived in Panama so i got on the plane somehow right? yep i bought a ticket out...one that i won't use. and in case you were wondering it was not cheap. which meant that i wasn't even going to consider paying for a hotel for that night which is why i slept in the airport.I don't even know how to describe Panama City. I was there for less than 2 days and didn't see much of the city, partially due to time and partially due to the torrential downpour that came through on Monday. So what i have to offer are some random observations and random thoughts/feelings i experienced in my time there. Upon further reflection I truly believe i need to visit again for more time and probably with someone who knows the city...following that visit i imagine i will have a much more thoughtful and accurate assessment of the city and it's people.My initial thoughts: "damn it is hot!" it was about 95 degrees with about 80% humidity and i was wearing jeans, a tank top, socks, shoes and carrying a 14lb backpack with a smaller 3 lb backpack.The city, or the parts i visited both days were full of sound. I wouldn't say noise because it was more like a cacophony. Music, cars, people, animals, rain, buses, boats and so much more. Lively is not the right word, probably energetic and even a little harsh to my ears. But let's not forget i was coming from Oaxaca so everything was heightened. This also then applies to the smells, the tastes and the sights...never did a beer or a plate of flautas taste so good. The smell of the sea was so strong i could taste the salt and the cool breezes that finally blew through in the evening calmed my burning skin.
The city is full contradictions. Great poverty next to great wealth. Beautiful architecture that sits crumbling as plants grow through the shattered windows and bowed door frames. Feral cats that run wild as people walk their tiny dogs. Salsa, reggae, jazz and funk that compete with the music of the the states and south america. A diverse population that intermixes and intermingles while a dividing line is still apparent when you look at the jobs people hold and the homes they live in.
Among all this, and amidst my many questions i could not shake the feeling of discomfort i felt. i am not thrilled when i experience this feeling, the feeling that as a woman you are not quite as safe as you would prefer. There was no evidence to warrant this feeling but after years of living and traveling i do trust this feeling and adapt my way of being in the world when i experience it.So there it is, Panama City in a brief moment of my life. I wish there were more.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
More photos from Oaxaca
I am in Panama now and have much to say about my time so far. But before i get to that, i want to post more photos from my time in the state of Oaxaca. I have some for certain people but i hope anyone who checks out the blog finds something to enjoy!
The last few days before i left Oaxaca i was lucky enough to visit the ruins of Mitla and the beautiful site of Hierve el Agua (natural rock formations that look like waterfalls and are created by fresh water springs) with one of my favorite Oaxaqueños.
One of my favorite pics from Mitla:
Here is Hierve el Agua:
This one is for the Brother, i took it at Monte Alban. Other photos from the ruins are below but as i was composing this one i thought of him.
This is one of my favorite little side streets in Oaxaca, I walked up or down it at least once a day.
This one is for the Mover-Shaker in Chicago...you know why i am posting this, sorry it took so long to send to you! Oh and it is on the above street!
This is another favorite street that i walked along. These are 'los arcos' part of an old aquaduct system into the city. Loved loved loved this street.
One of my favorites from Monte Alban. I was sitting on the tops steps of one of the ruins as the clouds rolled by, i loved the light and dark at the same moment.
This one is for the Candidate...
This one is for my Ukrainian friends who specifically asked for street pics...more to come i promise!!
This one is for the Family. Spending the night in the airport is no fun, especially since you are there because you are denied entry into a country (more on that in a later post). As i worked to regain my composure and maintain my sanity in the Mexico City airport, one of the things i did was go to this little anthropological museum in the airport. It was actually quite interesting and a great way to pass the time.
The last few days before i left Oaxaca i was lucky enough to visit the ruins of Mitla and the beautiful site of Hierve el Agua (natural rock formations that look like waterfalls and are created by fresh water springs) with one of my favorite Oaxaqueños.
One of my favorite pics from Mitla:
Here is Hierve el Agua:
This one is for the Brother, i took it at Monte Alban. Other photos from the ruins are below but as i was composing this one i thought of him.
This is one of my favorite little side streets in Oaxaca, I walked up or down it at least once a day.
This one is for the Mover-Shaker in Chicago...you know why i am posting this, sorry it took so long to send to you! Oh and it is on the above street!
This is another favorite street that i walked along. These are 'los arcos' part of an old aquaduct system into the city. Loved loved loved this street.
One of my favorites from Monte Alban. I was sitting on the tops steps of one of the ruins as the clouds rolled by, i loved the light and dark at the same moment.
This one is for the Candidate...
This one is for my Ukrainian friends who specifically asked for street pics...more to come i promise!!
This one is for the Family. Spending the night in the airport is no fun, especially since you are there because you are denied entry into a country (more on that in a later post). As i worked to regain my composure and maintain my sanity in the Mexico City airport, one of the things i did was go to this little anthropological museum in the airport. It was actually quite interesting and a great way to pass the time.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Panama City
Big city, full of contradictions and contrasts...and i am finding it completely overwhelming. Could be a bit of culture shock...Oaxaca and Panama City feel like 2 completely different places and at the moment i am missing Oaxaca. Could be exhaustion, missed my flight on Saturday and had to hang out in Mexico City and spend the night in the airport for my 7am Sunday morning flight. Still, since i arrived i have been trying to explore the city, i will only be here for just under 2 days so that is not much time. but that might be a good thing...
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Goodbyes
Had to say goodbye to the Seattle boys the last few days. One returned to the States and the other is off to another part of Mexico for a few weeks. But before the goodbyes, the Principal and i spent the evening in a restaurant overlooking the zocalo (central square-park) during a torrential downpour. Nothing like good food, great view, lively music and great company...we laughed so much and so hard i think i pulled a muscle in my back!
Funny how in life you can spend years building relationships with certain people, where it takes time and energy and many experiences in order to know them well. of course you spend all that time and energy because somehow you know they and the relationship are worth it. And then there are other moments when you happen upon a person who without effort or much explanation becomes a dear friend. clearly both are wonderful and amazing additions to your life and thus are valued as such.
undoubtedly i will treasure my time here in Oaxaca and in this moment will mention some highlights of the past few weeks: (oh these are in no particular order)
1. the food. seriously, everything i have eaten here i have loved. empanadas, chile rellenos, mole, barbacoa, bread, tortillas, fruit, juices, carne, churros...i could go on and on. still i have a feeling this is going to be a commentary that is repeated throughout my travels. haha
2. Monte Alban. those who know me know that history fascinates me and ruins...wow wow wow.
3. experiencing the World Cup in a spanish speaking country. granted Mexico lost and the populace was in a state of depression the following days but still...
4. Who knew i would grow to appreciate and even like the marimba?
5. teaching the grandkids (set of twin girls almost 2 years) how to spin around until they were dizzy...i am such a good role model huh?!
6. spanish classes. oh how much i needed them and how much they helped me! undoubtedly i have much more to learn, but i am butchering the language much less than when i first arrived! i also feel more confident and competent which is a testament to my teachers´ patience and instruction. oh by the way i developed a major crush on one of my teachers :-)
7. visiting the many art galleries here and getting to know more about the local artists
8. being here for the local elections. can you say FASCINATING? well for me anyway...
9. learning all about how extension cords bring people together. for example, a street vendor has a food cart and a tv, but their cord can´t reach anywhere and hey it´s the World Cup darn-it so the neighbors all get together and pull extension cords out of their homes and figure out a way to get the tv to function as the cord wraps around trees, doors and walls...together everyone watches the game and eats.
10. all the people i met along the way :-)
Funny how in life you can spend years building relationships with certain people, where it takes time and energy and many experiences in order to know them well. of course you spend all that time and energy because somehow you know they and the relationship are worth it. And then there are other moments when you happen upon a person who without effort or much explanation becomes a dear friend. clearly both are wonderful and amazing additions to your life and thus are valued as such.
undoubtedly i will treasure my time here in Oaxaca and in this moment will mention some highlights of the past few weeks: (oh these are in no particular order)
1. the food. seriously, everything i have eaten here i have loved. empanadas, chile rellenos, mole, barbacoa, bread, tortillas, fruit, juices, carne, churros...i could go on and on. still i have a feeling this is going to be a commentary that is repeated throughout my travels. haha
2. Monte Alban. those who know me know that history fascinates me and ruins...wow wow wow.
3. experiencing the World Cup in a spanish speaking country. granted Mexico lost and the populace was in a state of depression the following days but still...
4. Who knew i would grow to appreciate and even like the marimba?
5. teaching the grandkids (set of twin girls almost 2 years) how to spin around until they were dizzy...i am such a good role model huh?!
6. spanish classes. oh how much i needed them and how much they helped me! undoubtedly i have much more to learn, but i am butchering the language much less than when i first arrived! i also feel more confident and competent which is a testament to my teachers´ patience and instruction. oh by the way i developed a major crush on one of my teachers :-)
7. visiting the many art galleries here and getting to know more about the local artists
8. being here for the local elections. can you say FASCINATING? well for me anyway...
9. learning all about how extension cords bring people together. for example, a street vendor has a food cart and a tv, but their cord can´t reach anywhere and hey it´s the World Cup darn-it so the neighbors all get together and pull extension cords out of their homes and figure out a way to get the tv to function as the cord wraps around trees, doors and walls...together everyone watches the game and eats.
10. all the people i met along the way :-)
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Final week in Oaxaca
I am on my third week in Oaxaca and I have come to find that while i am absolutely an outsider here i have become very comfortable with my surroundings. Granted, i don´t know much about Oaxaca, not really anyway...but what i do know and what i have seen and experienced has made it so that i am quite sure i will want to return again and again.
Obviously i haven´t seen or experienced all that is available here or throughout this state, but in part it was a deliberate decision to "miss out" on certain things in order to experience others. For instance, one of my teachers asked me why i have not spent more time going out to the clubs-bars. Initially my response was that I was spending time with the family and that i had less interest in the dancing-drinking-partying scene. While both things are true, upon further reflection that is a simplistic answer.
The family i am staying with includes a grandmother of 85 years who is a fabulous cook, a devout Catholic and a devoted grandmother. She has introduced me to her favorite telenovelas (including catching me up on what i missed), explained the intricacies of many of her recipes, told me stories about her childhood, and shared her hopes for her family. Together we walk to church or a local concert. Together with my hostess we could talk about music for hours! Oh and she helped me to not only appreciate but enjoy the marimba!
My hostess, as i have mentioned before will talk with me about everything and while there are times i get a bit confused or lost in the conversation she is always willing to repeat or help me to understand. We have talked for hours about politics, the state of education, relationships, discrimination, family, religion, children-youth, travel, and so many other things. I have learned so much from her and am so grateful for her and her willingness to spend time with me.
The family...grandchildren, children, cousins, uncles, siblings and all the rest have welcomed me at every occasion. Recently there have been many and at each one they have not only allowed me into their lives, they have shared parts of themselves with me and allowed me to get a glimpse into their lives.
The grand trip, 4 months in many places, has never been for me to see things. Rather it has been for me to EXPERIENCE things. It is an attempt to understand just a little better how and why people think, live and act as they do. I am confident i will have many opportunities to go out at night throughout my trip. but, i am not sure how often i will have the opportunity to spend time with the people who live wherever i am, and to do so with family no less, it just doesn´t seem as likely.
So in this moment i am a bit sad to see my time here coming to an end.
Obviously i haven´t seen or experienced all that is available here or throughout this state, but in part it was a deliberate decision to "miss out" on certain things in order to experience others. For instance, one of my teachers asked me why i have not spent more time going out to the clubs-bars. Initially my response was that I was spending time with the family and that i had less interest in the dancing-drinking-partying scene. While both things are true, upon further reflection that is a simplistic answer.
The family i am staying with includes a grandmother of 85 years who is a fabulous cook, a devout Catholic and a devoted grandmother. She has introduced me to her favorite telenovelas (including catching me up on what i missed), explained the intricacies of many of her recipes, told me stories about her childhood, and shared her hopes for her family. Together we walk to church or a local concert. Together with my hostess we could talk about music for hours! Oh and she helped me to not only appreciate but enjoy the marimba!
My hostess, as i have mentioned before will talk with me about everything and while there are times i get a bit confused or lost in the conversation she is always willing to repeat or help me to understand. We have talked for hours about politics, the state of education, relationships, discrimination, family, religion, children-youth, travel, and so many other things. I have learned so much from her and am so grateful for her and her willingness to spend time with me.
The family...grandchildren, children, cousins, uncles, siblings and all the rest have welcomed me at every occasion. Recently there have been many and at each one they have not only allowed me into their lives, they have shared parts of themselves with me and allowed me to get a glimpse into their lives.
The grand trip, 4 months in many places, has never been for me to see things. Rather it has been for me to EXPERIENCE things. It is an attempt to understand just a little better how and why people think, live and act as they do. I am confident i will have many opportunities to go out at night throughout my trip. but, i am not sure how often i will have the opportunity to spend time with the people who live wherever i am, and to do so with family no less, it just doesn´t seem as likely.
So in this moment i am a bit sad to see my time here coming to an end.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Just another day
So July 4th, Independence day in the USA and i suppose for any American no matter where you are it brings up images of fireworks, barbeques and family-friends. Funny thing about being in Mexico on the 4th...while we weren´t celebrating Independence day, all things came together so that i was doing all those things that come to mind. First, a fiesta with the family to celebrate the graduation of one of the grandkids from kindergarten, of course it was more a celebration for the family. Of course there was lots of food (including a roasted-barbacued pig), music, laughter, lots of talk about the election (this same day) and of course more food! Granted, it was all happening in Mexico and in Spanis
h no less but it felt much like the block parties or graduation parties i attended in my youth. So in essence, it felt like home.The other student in the house left on Friday and on Saturday a new one arrived. This one is 20 (oh she turns 21 while here in Mexico) and from the bay area. Of course! So on Sunday, after the festivities with the family, the second round began. This time it was a visit to one of the churches as there was a celebration in and around the church. Food, music, celebrating and oh right, fireworks. Love it.
Here are a few photos, the quality isn´t so great but you get the point :-)
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